Sync
I use it to keep my most important documents and information available, from work and from home… and from anywhere else… well, almost.

Passwords
Together with the little software Keepass (KeepassX for OS X/Linux) I generate random passwords ans save them in Dropbox. Keepass stores passwords in an encrypted file, with one master password. Dropbox syncs the file to all my computers. All I need to remember is ONE password, and I can get to the other ones wherever I am (as long as I have a computer or other device).

Client for Windows, OS X, Linux
I use Dropbox client on all platforms I work on, so I can reach my files without problems on both Mac OS X, Ubuntu Linux and Windows 7.

Sharing
You can share folder and documents with other users, or can make a file public and give someone a URL to download a file. A simple way to share documents.

Space
The free space in Dropbox is  2 GB, but you can add more.

What if the service is offline?
Don’t worry, the files are still stored on your computer.

Support Retrocamera.net
If you want Dropbox, and want to make  it easier for me to work with this site, get Dropbox via this link.

• Do you want a blog?
• Back after an accident
• Become Yashica-user number 30 to join the forum!
• Greenfilter + Photoshop = Graphical
• MFlenses – learn more about manual cameras and lenses

The solution
The discussion came up on MFlenses.com the other day. I have been taught that having the camera in the bag and warming it up slowly was the thing. But it was questioned and suggested warming up as fast as possible was better. I had a theory that humidity had something to do with the two versions. Sweden has COLD and DRY air in the winter, when I can imagine some countries further south can have a higher humidity and and slightly warmer – maybe it is better to warm up fast there? But I haven’t got a scientific proof that my solution is best. Do you?

• Manual lenses and cold (0º C to -20 º C) What to do? @MFlenses
• How to prevent condensation in camera / lens? What cause it? @photo.net
• Condensation Can Cause Problems @NYTimes
• Prevent condensation @SnapJunky

• Leg of ice with Super-Takumar 105mm/2.8
• Orange sundown and blue snow
• The warm and cold
• The warm and cold part 2
• Checklist before you buy used cameras and lenses on ebay

1. Pricerange on previous sold lenses
   Check how much other people payed for the same lens. MFLenses has a Used lens price guide, use that and seach on forums, ebay and Google also. Research the lens well. For example there can be differences between batches of products hinted by the serialnumber.

2. Reliable seller?
   When you buy anything, you need to know that the seller is ok. Check sellers feedback!. It should be 100% or close to it. Do a search on the sellers username, some sites has blacklists of bad sellers.

   

   Dont buy from Al Capone

3. Shipping
   I live in Sweden, buying a cheap heavy camera from ebay.com is not very smart for me since the shipping often will be very high. A filter or hood might work better. Possibly a lens. I more often buy heavy things from ebay.co.uk and the swedish version tradera.com
   
   

   Shipping could be expensive

4. Condition of the item
   No reason to buy worn stuff when mint condition often don’t cost much more. Watch out for the “I know nothing of cameras” auction. It can be a bargain or something really bad – there’s no way of knowing. You take a chance, sometimes you will get wonderful things and sometimes crap.

   If you wan’t to be sure the item is in good condition there should be images, you should see the lenses and make the seller write that there is no fungus or scratches. See the articles I link to below for more tips.

   however, sometimes it can be worth it taking a chance…

5. Things to watch out for
   • Fungus – often look like small spiderwebs inside the lensglass.
   • Scratches – the lens can still work but you get it much cheaper!
   • Cleaningmarks – to hard cleaning can damage coating
   • Stuck/oily aperture – can work with cleaning if you feel up to it, otherwise don’t buy this.
   • Dented filterrings – you wan’t to be able to attach hoods, filter etc… and dents don’t look nice ;)
   • Corroded batteries – happens sometimes with old gear unused
   • Dead lightmeters – Camera can still be usable but not very fun

Links with more tips on how to buy used cameras and lenses:

• MFlenses Used Lens Price guide
• Vintage Camera Evaluation and Buysers guide
• Buying an Antique Camera
• Buy a Camera safely and Avoid the cowboy sellers
• Matt Denton: Camera-buying tips for ebay

Images in the article is from Wikimedia Commons

• 10 signs you got GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome)
• MFlenses – learn more about manual cameras and lenses
• Photolinks, part 1
• Review of Yashica MC Zoom 35-70mm/3.5-4.5
• Review of Pentacon Auto 50mm/1.8

It has a small dent in the filterring but can still take filters, so it’s not too bad. Otherwise good condition. I can count 10 blades aperture. Preset. Sharp, but great bokeh. When I come to think of it maybe I should sell the Super-Takumar 105mm/2.8 instead… it’s not an easy choice. Here’s a link to my review on the Tele-Tokina.

Tele-Tokina 105mm/2.8 side

Tele-Tokina 105mm/2.8 front

Tele-Tokina 105mm/2.8 angle

Portrait of my wife and duaghter

Mushroom

• Review of Tele-Tokina 105mm/2.8 preset T2
• Review of Pentacon Electric 135mm f2.8 M42
• Wooden racecardriver-image with Tele-Tokina
• Review of Asahi S-M-C Takumar 55mm/1.8
• The early Tokina that came with my Spotmatic

Yashinon DX 50mm/1.7 berries

• First try with Yashica ML 50mm/f2
• Review of Yashica ML 50mm/2
• Point your lens at the sun
• Bokeh – what is that?
• Review of Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm/3.5 Zebra

Ripped film

Although I didn’t get that until I opened the back and let the light in! But you learn from you mistakes, and I can enlighten others about them, so here’s how you do it.

The rewind release is around the shutter release-button. On the Zenit ET is protected of a halfcircle of plastic. I now use the casing of a pen to press it down, ALL THE WAY DOWN!

Push it down

Ok, rewind the film with the film rewind knob. Lift it up to open cameraback and take out the film. Now, I don’t know if its just my cameras rewind release thats a bit stuck but I hade to screw the button a bit to get it back up again.

Rewind release and shutter release

For forther reading look at the Zenit B, E and EM manual.

• Review of Auto Yashinon-DX 50mm/1.7 m42-lens
• Is film dead? A thought and Ektar 120mm
• Review of Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm/3.5 Zebra
• $50 dollar film camera-project on Epic Edits
• Digital to Analog, and Back